Posted on

Project Dino-Solar 240

A gadget to charge the Power Tank off AC power.

The Power Tank uses a Victron MPPT 75/15 for battery charging. I experimented with this and found that it would happily charge from a DC power supply connected to the PV input.

I tried several different bench power supplies and also 18V DeWalt cordless drill batteries, and all seemed to work fine. Victron specify that the DC input voltage has to be at least 5V above battery voltage for the charger to start, and then 1V greater for it to continue running, so in practice 24 or 48V DC would be a good input voltage for my 12V system.

I settled on a Meanwell HLG-240H-48A LED driver obtained cheaply on eBay, that supplies 48V DC at 5A.

This worked just fine plugged directly into the solar input, but I decided to complicate things by adding an automatic changeover between solar and AC charging when AC power was present. My first attempt was to use a couple of diodes to OR the solar and PSU inputs, but this didn’t work. The PSU would be dragged into current limit as soon as it was turned on, and the MPPT would then ramp its output voltage up and down searching for a max power point and never find it.

The key to a successful changeover turned out to be to disconnect the solar panels, wait 5-10 seconds for the input voltage to fall to zero and the MPPT to shut down, and then connect the power supply. I made a circuit to do this automatically depending on the presence of AC power.

This junk box inspired design is based on a Europa ECMFT timer relay, and a Raspberry Pi 4 wall power supply that I’d previously cut the DC plug off for some reason. When AC power becomes present, the Raspberry Pi wall wart supplies 5V to a changeover relay, that disconnects the MPPT positive input from the solar panels and connects it to the 48V DC PSU, which is still turned off. After 10 seconds the timer relay switches the PSU on.

When AC power is lost the reverse happens. The 48V PSU turns off straight away, while the Raspberry Pi PSU keeps the changeover relay energised for a few seconds on its stored energy. This avoids the changeover relay having to break the 48V while current is flowing.

The main weakness of this circuit is that it uses a relay to break and make the DC output of the solar panels. Relay contacts typically have much reduced DC ratings compared to their AC rating, and most won’t even handle more than 30V DC.

This isn’t a huge problem, if there was lots of solar power available, why would I even be switching over to AC charging? Also my solar array is tiny and puts out less than 30V DC. However, I paid it some lip service by choosing a relay with a 30V DC rating, and putting two of them in series on the PV side. (What if the 2 relays don’t open at exactly the same time I hear you ask? Next question please…)

I tried a new enclosure construction technique for this, based on a piece of 4″ x 4″ aluminium box section. The ends are made of sheet aluminium and attached to the box section by aluminium angle. The HLG-240H-48A is screwed to the case with a generous amount of heatsink compound to help it lose heat by conduction, which it seems to manage OK.

You might notice that the prototype had a digital voltage and current meter which is now gone. This cheap Chinese meter turned out to be basically a random number generator so I ditched it.

I think it looks great, but the wiring was a real pain and ended up very messy inside, because it all had to be done through the ends. I’m not sure I’d use this technique again unless the innards could be made to slide out as a single unit. That wasn’t possible in this case because of the power supply covered in heatsink grease.

Posted on

Project Happy Welder 3000

[Documenting the happy outcome]

This was a long-running project to get my welder running off the Lister diesel generator. After a few dead ends it is now officially finished and has become a piece of workshop equipment for day-to-day welding of other things.

It ended up split into two sections which I’ll call the Happy Welder 3000S and 3000T. The division was a bit arbitrary and was really about letting me reuse salvaged enclosures from my junk heap.

Happy Welder 3000S

The “S” stands for switch box or splitter. The main purpose of this part is to split the incoming supply from the generator into two. One feed goes to the welder and the other to a selection of “dumpable loads” which are switched off while welding is in progress.

The motivation behind this is to keep a decent amount of load on the engine most of the time. Diesels like to work and will get clogged up with soot if left idling for long periods of time. And the nature of welding is short periods of high power draw with long breaks in between. (at least at Container Labs it is, I’m not planning on building a ship any time soon)

I fiddled with a few different schemes to turn off the dumpable loads by sensing the supply current draw of the welder, but couldn’t get this to work reliably. So I modified the welder slightly. It has a solenoid operated gas valve inside that supplies argon to the torch while welding. This opens a second or two before the arc is struck and stays open for about 20 seconds after it goes out. Just perfect for actuating a load dump contactor.

Using some zip ties and piggyback spade terminals, I connected a relay in parallel with the gas valve operating coil. This runs off 24V DC so finding a suitable relay was no problem. To save drilling a hole* in the welder I repurposed the 3 unused pins on the foot pedal connector. I do have a foot pedal, but it plugs into the hand controller socket on the front panel.

* another hole- the eagle-eyed might notice that I’ve already replaced the captive power cord with a Neutrik Powercon inlet. I love Powercons 😀

Schematic of Happy Welder 3000S

I wanted a low voltage signal for triggering the load dump contactor. The relay I added inside the welder is quite capable of switching 230V, but the foot switch plug has male pins that could deliver an electric shock when unplugged if I used mains voltage here. So the finishing touch was a small low voltage power supply inside the 3000S enclosure just for the contactor coil. I used a 12V switched mode wall wart with the pins trimmed down and a piece of plastic attached with hot glue to insulate the stumps.

The CPC catalogue turned up an inexpensive 20A contactor with a 12V coil and normally closed contact, and the 3000S was done.

In use the “dumpable loads” are two battery chargers feeding the Power Tank, and an electric heater. The 3000S also serves as the earthing point for the generator and everything connected to it.

The battery chargers are modified switched mode power supplies which I’ll write about another time. In the bottom right you can see my long-suffering Astec LPS250 which started life as 5V, 50A, and is now cranking out 30A at 14.4V. Not bad for a “250W” unit, do I smell burning? :/

Happy Welder 3000T

T is for transformer. This box (a Pentium 4 PC in a previous life) contains all of the parts that I found were needed to make the welder accept Lister’s quirky retro power quality. I already had this enclosure in my junk pile and it fitted perfectly under the workbench. I pondered trying to squeeze the 3000S parts in here too but decided it would be a wiring and assembly nightmare.

Schematic of Happy Welder 3000T

The most important part (as determined by trial and error) is a 2.1kVA autotransformer that steps down 230V to 190. I believe this was originally used to reduce the voltage to street lighting in the early hours as an energy saving measure.

The box also contains a bridge rectifier, capacitor and power resistor (sold as a 230V, 100W cabinet heater) the purpose of which is to draw lots of current on the voltage peaks and squash them down a bit further. This was the final bodge that allowed me to max out the generator’s engine power without any overvoltage trips. Hopefully it should also protect the 12V power supply inside the 3000S from destruction by excessive peak voltage.

A small fan on the rear panel blows air over the transformer, before it exits through the resistor. This is really a must as the resistor is dissipating about twice its rated power.

The fan was also salvaged. I can’t remember what it came out of. I had a fun afternoon making front and rear panels out of pieces of scrap metal.

The first of hopefully many happy welds. (proof that a weld doesn’t need to be Insta worthy to be happy 😀 )

Posted on

Fixing EMF carnage part 2

With the PFC sorted I turned my attention to the main coil unit. I started by replacing the melted tank capacitors. One had exploded, one looked a bit burnt, and the leg of a third capacitor came off in my hand.

Out of curiosity I cut open the exploded capacitor. The whole inside was just a blackened mess.

I bought a load of these Cornell Dubilier 942C series capacitors, 1uF 1000V, years ago for the OLTC 2. In Odin they are overloaded to about 3x their rated RMS current and crammed into an unventilated wooden box, so I’m not entirely surprised they failed.

What did surprise me was that every other capacitor tested fine! I found replacements for the destroyed caps in my pile of Tesla junk and the capacitor bank was ready to go again!

Inspecting the rest of the circuitry, the only other problem I could find was a shattered transistor on one of the gate drive boards, which looked like it had been mechanically damaged while taking the unit apart.

After a few days’ wait for Farnell to deliver a replacement, I headed to the container and set up all the parts of Odin minus the secondary coil for a dummy load test.

Unfortunately something wasn’t right, the primary current was well below what it should be, and the “Power Fail” LED lit up every time the fire button was pressed.

Suspecting a wounded IGBT brick that was drawing a lot of gate current and overloading its gate driver, I took the bridge apart and tested everything, but the IGBTs seemed fine! All the resistance and diode tests checked out, and a 9v battery turned them on and off happily.

Using Banggood’s finest thermal imaging camera (80 x 60 pixels resolution!) I could see that something on one of the gate drive boards was getting exceptionally hot.

It turned out to be a shorted diode in the gate drive board’s power supply that was causing the voltage to sag horribly and trigger the undervoltage lockout. UVLO is really important in this application where we are driving IGBTs well over their rated current. Trying to pass the full current with insufficient gate voltage will result in a big bang. Luckily the UVLO did its job today and there was no bang.

With the diode replaced, the Power Fail light went out and the gate waveform looked “just perfect” as Allen Millyard would say.

This looked encouraging so I put some DC bus voltage to it and the full 1250 amps of primary current were achieved with no obvious issues.

(These posts are a bit behind of events, I’ve since taken Odin to Gaussfest 2024 and everything performed fine.)

Posted on

Fixing EMF carnage part 1

During Odin’s final performance at EMF there was a loud bang and everything stopped working. I decided it wasn’t worth attempting a field repair as there were basically only 20 minutes of the festival left and most of the potential spectators were heading home.

Reviewing some video of the fatal performance, I could see a blue light shining out of the PFC after which Odin’s spark output rapidly declined to nothing. This implied that the coil was still working after the PFC died, and might actually be undamaged, apart from the melted tank capacitor that I later replaced with Dawncaps.

I started by investigating the PFC. The innards were well and truly splattered. Both SiC MOSFETs had cratered, the legs of one boost diode were partly eaten away, and a thin layer of vaporised copper covered everything. Even the ferrite core of one of the current transformers had partly melted.

Clearly a quite impressive arc flash had taken place. I think the most likely explanation is that something damp and conductive got in between the boost diode legs and caused the flashover. An arc here would have connected all of the charged DC bus capacitance (4400uF total at 750V!) to the MOSFET drains, causing them to fail explosively from massive overcurrent as soon as they next turned on.

Amazingly the old diodes tested good, though the copper-coated one had a somewhat lower forward voltage. I replaced them anyway with these SemiQ parts that have double the pin spacing.

The annihilated Cree/Wolfspeed SiC MOSFETs were replaced with Infineon IMZ120R060M1HXKSA1.

I forgot to order a replacement CT, so I reinstalled the burnt one with a generous amount of hot glue. It still tested ok for continuity and primary/secondary insulation resistance, and the inductance was reasonable, if a bit lower than its undamaged partner.

Power up was completely uneventful, though the pause while the control power supply gets going can be a bit unsettling. You can see that I added a test socket for viewing the inductor current while I had the unit apart.

It runs happily and the inductor current waveform looks reasonable. I tried overloading the DC output until the 20A breaker on my house circuit tripped, and it seemed to survive that fine.

As this is a post-hoc post, I can say that the PFC also survived Gaussfest 2024 including several performances of Ian Dunne’s theremin.

Posted on

An AVR for the Lister diesel

I spent entirely too long pondering why Lister wouldn’t run the welder, and decided to build an automatic voltage regulator (AVR) for the generator to investigate further. My reasoning went as follows: If stepping the generator output voltage down to 200V from 240 made the welder happy, then surely regulating it down to 200V would do the same?

I started out intending to build a straight copy of the Homo Ludens AVR2 but it mutated and mutated eventually turning into the above circuit.

The AVR2 is simple and ingenious, but:

I wanted an accurately defined 200-240 or 100-120V adjustment range.

I discovered the principle of keeping the peak voltage under control with a bridge rectifier and large capacitor, and wanted to include that and make it track the average voltage, without using a multi-gang pot.

The Homo Ludens circuit needs a normally closed relay to start up. I accepted his challenge of getting rid of the relay.

The Homo Ludens triac output stage really didn’t work that well in practice with my generator that derives its field excitation from its main output. It mostly functioned as an on-off switch and hardly gave any range of phase angle control.

Explanation of my circuit:

The whole circuit is powered off the rectified and filtered output voltage of the generator. This can be either 115 or 230V nominal. C1 charges to something between 140 and 360V DC in use, clipping the generator peak voltage as it powers everything.

Depletion MOSFET Q2 and regulator U1 work together to provide an accurately regulated 10V supply that powers the low voltage part of the circuit and also functions as the voltage reference. Using a depletion MOSFET here allows the circuit to start with less than 10V AC from the generator, achieving the goal of getting rid of the Homo Ludens relay. The DN2540 is also a really docile part with quite low gain, and showed no signs of oscillation. It does get rather warm and would need a small heatsink when the circuit is running in 230V mode.

R1-R6 form two voltage dividers that sense the peak and rectified average generator output voltage. C2 and C3 provide some low-pass filtering of ripple, and for the average channel the amount of filtering is adjustable by RV1. The operating concept of the circuit is basically the same as the Homo Ludens one: the field coils and clipping resistor are driven by PWM, and the ripple on the sensed voltage functions as the PWM carrier. The smaller the ripple amplitude, the higher the control loop gain. Again like the Homo Ludens AVR2, this is a proportional controller only, no attempt was made to add integral or derivative terms.

The voltages are all scaled such that 40V RMS true sine wave input gives 1V at VPEAK and VAVG. RV2 and its associated fixed resistors make a reference voltage that varies between 2.5 and 3.0V in 120V mode, or 5.0 to 6.0V in 240V mode, thus giving adjustment ranges of 100-120 and 200-240V.

U2A and U2B function as comparators with a little AC hysteresis to avoid multiple transitions and high frequency oscillations. The values were found by trial and error to give happy PWM at twice the AC frequency.

The output stages are quite conventional, though scraping the junk box somewhat at this point. A 555 was used as an inverting MOSFET driver, and Q3 as a non-inverting one. A TC4428 dual MOSFET driver chip would have been a more elegant solution. The IRF840 and UF4007 were chosen by the same junk box scraping principle.

The original Homo Ludens optoisolated triac output stage can of course still be used with this circuit. Connect the opto-triac LED between U2A output and +10V. I would be interested to try this with the common and low cost “brushless self-excited” generators, connecting the triac in series with the capacitor. Internet wisdom says that these can’t be AVRd.

This circuit was tested with 50Hz AC supply from a variac and found to have rather low gain even with RV1 at maximum. It took maybe 30-40V change in variac setting to go through the full range of PWM. A 50k trimmer for RV1 would have been better, and the peak clipping channel could do with a similar increase in filtering. (The two iron cored chokes and series light bulb are simulating a generator field winding.)

I decided I would try it with Lister anyway though.

AVR was connected in place of original Brush generator excitation circuit. It used a variable series resistor and bridge rectifier connected to one of the generator’s 120V sections, so I did the same. With the generator switched to 240V I would only be sensing/regulating half of the output voltage, so I hoped the magnetic coupling between the two sections would be tight enough that the unregulated one would follow the regulated one.

The series fields with their excitation from rectified load current were left connected, while the AVR controlled the shunt field.

I take my breadboards seriously. 😀

Note the small inductors (salvaged from dimmer switches) to filter out MOSFET switching spikes and reduce EMI.

Turning the pot adjusted voltage from 200 to 240V as designed. It worked a lot better than I expected from testing with the variac.

Throwing a 30uF capacitive load onto the generator to make it self-excite showed good control over the voltage.

Sadly it didn’t work, the welder would trip out almost instantly on an overvoltage error, even with the AVR turned down to 200V.

What I think is happening is that the average voltage regulating channel is quite slow to respond as it has to contend with the inductance of the generator’s shunt field coils, so for very rapid changes in voltage, it basically does nothing, the voltage regulation is determined by the impedance of the generator’s windings. Which turned out to be high enough to make the welder’s PFC front end unstable.

The welder PFC then ended up in a fight with the AVR’s peak clipping channel, one trying to distort the voltage waveform into a thin and peaky shape, the other trying to chop the peaks off. The welder apparently won, distorting the voltage to the point that it tripped its own overvoltage protection.

Posted on

Why won’t Lister run the welder?

[~A tale of weird waveforms~]

My main motivation for borrowing Lister was to run the welder at Container Labs. My GYS Protig 201 AC/DC claims to be “generator friendly and protected” but also “minimum generator size 7.5kVA”.

Lister is rated for 3kW at power factor 1.0, but looks massively overbuilt, so I thought it would be worth a try.

My first attempt at welding was pretty anticlimactic, on striking an arc the welder instantly shut down with error code “US1”. According to the GYS manual this means input voltage over 265V RMS. On further reading the unit claims to withstand up to 400V RMS/700V peak without damage but will apparently shut down above 265.

Since the welder has a PFC front end, I tried substituting the Odin PFC to see if this would manifest the same issue. It is rated to run at 415V RMS and has 1200V semiconductors so I had no worries about blowing it up with overvoltage. I used the Tesla Model 3 cabin heater as a dummy load for the PFC output.

This was somewhat inconclusive as the Odin PFC happily ate all of the generator output, showing no signs of serious instability under load, and making an impressive blast of hot air from the cabin heater.

The unloaded peak voltage did look somewhat high, due to the PFC’s EMI filter capacitors resonating with the generator winding inductance at the tooth ripple frequency.

Unloaded

These scope shots only show one-half of the generator output voltage, as I didn’t have an isolated scope probe handy, and the generator output is centre tapped to earth. So the total peak voltage is 472V unloaded and 368V under full load. These would equate to 335V and 261V RMS with an ideal sine wave. Since the actual RMS is 256V unloaded and 232V loaded, we certainly have some evidence of waveform distortion under both conditions.

Fully loaded

So on the face of it I could see how this could trip the welder’s overvoltage protection. I also heard from a friend who had experience of using similar generators to power his ham radio field day stations, and he said the waveforms tended to be “thin” with too high peak voltage for their RMS.

I pondered various ways of attacking the problem, a filter to remove the tooth ripple? This would need some seriously expensive and bulky inductors, so I didn’t bother. My first experiment was to step the output voltage down using an autotransformer (as I had one handy) and clip the peaks off using a rectifier, capacitor and resistive load.

This contraption (which I’ll call the Happy Welder 3000) worked surprisingly well, using the 190V tap, the peak and RMS voltages were both brought somewhat under control, and I was able to crank the welder to about 150A output at which point the engine began to bog down and belch black smoke, but would recover by letting off the TIG foot pedal.

Voltage and current drawn by the peak clipper

The Happy Welder 3000 seemed like a bodge so I went looking for a more elegant solution. I discovered that just switching the generator to 115V would give a decent result with no extra hardware needed. Voltage drop in the 25m x 2.5 sq mm extension cord (used to get generator noise and diesel fumes away from me) now limited me to a somewhat lower welding current before I got error “US2”, undervoltage this time. I was able to do a small job on mild steel this way.

I spent way too long thinking about this problem and ended up building an AVR which to my surprise, made the problem even worse! The welder was quite happy with 200V from the autotransformer, but with generator output reduced to 200V by the AVR, it wouldn’t run for more than a fraction of a second before tripping on error US1.

I don’t know how it took me so long, but I eventually stumbled on the idea of filming the scope screen while welding and examining the footage frame by frame.

I believe this frame captures the instant that the welder shuts down on error US1. Top trace is generator output voltage, bottom is current drawn by the AVR’s peak clipping channel. DVM shows the voltage across the AVR’s filter capacitor, which should be one-half of the peak output voltage.

The waveform is completely different to any I saw previously, and leaves only one possible explanation, the impedance (resistance and inductance) of the generator windings is too high for the welder’s PFC front end, it goes unstable and wrenches the waveform out of shape.

The instability pushes the peak voltage way higher than anything I measured while not welding, and does this so quickly that the meters I’d been using didn’t have time to register it. The AVR’s peak clipper tries to keep the peak voltage under control but fails.

This explains why stepping the voltage down to 200, and switching the generator to 115V, both worked and enabled me to weld, but using the AVR to reduce the voltage to 200 didn’t.

Switching to 115V gives an impedance one-quarter of the 230V setting. A transformer that steps the voltage down from 240 to 200 reduces the impedance to 76%.

On the other hand, the AVR only compensates for relatively slow fluctuations in voltage by adjusting the field current. It has no effect on the resistance and inductance of the windings, so can’t do anything about the waveform distortion.

I think I earned my professional development points on this one.

Posted on

Schematic and replacing the rectifiers

After a period of working OK Lister’s output voltage began to sag horribly under load. The selenium rectifiers are known to be unreliable so I decided to replace them.

The below schematic shows how the Brush 3kVA alternator is wired (Brush connection diagram 9840322)

OOps, the series and shunt field labels are swapped.

The generator has both shunt and series fields. A silicon bridge rectifier provides excitation for the shunt field while the series fields are energised by a portion of the load current, through the selenium rectifiers. The armature and series fields are in two identical sections that can be switched in parallel for 115V or in series for 230.

Note that in 230V mode the output is centre tapped to earth. Both live and neutral pins of the outlet have 120V on them. This seems to be a design decision by Brush to reduce the risk of electric shock, however it means that live and neutral both need to be fused.

I took the opportunity to do some 4 wire resistance measurements while the wiring was disconnected. One section had a series field resistance of 0.20 ohms and a diverter resistance of 1.00 ohms. The other had a field DCR of 0.21 and the diverter resistor was set to 0.87. This resistor was burnt from a previous short circuit so I cleaned it and reset to 0.96 ohms using the unburnt end.

I prepared two KBPC3506 silicon bridge rectifiers on a heatsink. These are an inexpensive 35A 600V part available from many distributors.

The new rectifiers are much smaller so I was able to get rid of a lot of wiring, and that sketchy looking woven tube that was probably asbestos.

Of course I saved the original rectifiers, lol no, they went straight in the toxic waste.

Posted on

A coat of paint for the “Power Tank”

Fittingly the paint colour is Valspar “Thunderbolt” left over from painting the front door at home. Still waiting on some more industrial looking socket outlets to replace the chrome ones.

I’ve been warned that after going to Powerpole connectors for 12V DC distribution, I’ll never want to touch a cigarette lighter plug again. That sounds about right.

Posted on

Off-grid power bank

I’ve been renting a 20ft container to use as storage and workshop space, and wanted some electrical power.

The prototype was not very elegant. 😀 The basic components are a 135W solar panel on the roof, a 12V 100Ah AGM leisure battery, a Victron MPPT charge controller, and a 1kW pure sine wave inverter.

The inverter is a reasonably priced “Mercury” branded unit from TLC Electrical. I believe the Chinese OEM is Ningbo Kosun. I may do a more detailed review in another post.

Lead-acid batteries aren’t great for geek points, but I thought it would be the best technology for the job. I only visit about once or twice per week and rarely drain the battery completely. It can also get very hot in there in summer, so the battery figure of merit I’m interested in is basically calendar life when fully charged at high temperature. Lead-acid offers a lot of that for the money.

The first problem I found is that the Victron’s load output is wimpy. It won’t even run a 12V compressor. However the Victron has a good algorithm for turning off the load when the battery gets low to avoid damaging depth of discharge, and I wanted to make use of that.

So my first addition was a large MOSFET solid-state relay that would allow the Victron load output to control a much heavier load at 12V. I made this myself using 3x IRFP7430 MOSFETs in parallel, driven by a Si8712 isolated driver chip. The MOSFETs are rated at 40V, 195A, 1mOhm Rds(on). Turn-on and off seems to be rather slow. The small package on the right is a flyback diode to avoid a large transient when turning off an inductive load such as a motor. The MOSFETs would probably be ok with this, but it could damage other loads on the 12V bus.

The solid-state relay does not switch the supply to the inverter. This is connected directly to the battery to minimise voltage drop.

I modified the inverter to have a remote on/off switch, which was very easy as the internal on/off switch just connects 12V from the positive input terminal to the control circuitry. I simply hacked it so the control circuitry got its 12V feed from the Victron’s load output via a front panel toggle switch. This allows the Victron’s low battery algorithm to turn off the inverter alongside the other loads, and allows me to bury the inverter inside the enclosure with no access worries…

Note that I couldn’t find the official remote control panel for the “Mercury” inverter. I bought what I thought was the correct one on eBay, and on plugging it in, there was smoke… Luckily it all came from the remote and the inverter still appeared to be in good shape.

I also got this 500 amp battery monitor in Renogy’s Black Friday sale. 500A is overkill but it was cheaper than the lower current versions. The accuracy at low currents turned out to be fine.

I wanted a visual indication that the inverter was on, and also some geeky statistics relating to the AC output. This power meter module from Amazon did the trick with its cheery blue backlight. It is powered from the AC supply, and this increases the 12V power draw of the inverter by about 1 watt.

A British Army F632 ammo box was procured to fit all the parts in and… they didn’t fit. To gain some extra space, I added a wooden frame to the front made from CLS studs. I am quite proud of the Stratocaster jack cups as PV input connectors.

I provided 3 DC outputs: two Powerpole connectors protected by 32A circuit breakers and a cigarette lighter with a 10A breaker. Household AC circuit breakers do seem to work on 12V DC. I’ve seen them used up to 48V DC.

The inverter feeds two British standard socket outlets via RCBOs (earth leakage trips). In order for these to function the inverter’s neutral is connected to earth. Battery negative is also connected to earth and in use the earth stud is connected to the container. I believe this is the best overall solution from an electrical safety point of view.

The RCBOs do consume some AC power to perform their earth leakage monitoring function, but the amount is tiny, and doesn’t increase the inverter standby consumption noticeably. I tried Axiom and British General brands, and the BG ones had the lowest consumption.

These also have a 6A overcurrent trip function (the O in RCBO) but the inverter’s own current limiting would probably always operate before they tripped.

The inverter was mounted on a plywood divider and some holes punched in the sides of the box to promote airflow. I also removed the AC socket outlet from the inverter, leaving a large square hole for extra airflow, cut out the fan grill from the inverter casing, and reversed the fan. Hopefully these changes will make up for jamming it inside a relatively small compartment.

To be honest I have no idea if reversing the fan helped the inverter’s own cooling. Stock behaviour is to suck hot air out of the enclosure, and the old rule of thumb is that it’s always better to blow in cooling systems, but the inverter seemed like a quite well balanced and optimised design otherwise, so I can’t believe the designers left much on the table with sub-optimal cooling.

Really it was for my own convenience at a system level, the fan is at the 12V input end of the inverter and I wanted the hot air exhaust at the opposite end to the battery terminals, so I could have shortest possible battery wiring and a neat “signal path” from DC to AC without the inverter’s hot air blowing onto the Victron charge controller.

You might notice the lack of fuses on the battery positive terminal. Every connection to the battery is ultimately protected by a fuse or circuit breaker, but not directly at the terminal.

In use, you can see the inputs from the PV panel and the earth wire leading to an earth clamp on the container. (A steel framed building as far as BS7671 is concerned I guess.) The 12V and 240V wiring are not done yet.

The power bank itself could also do with a coat of paint and some more industrial looking unswitched AC outlets. The chrome ones are a bit flashy. Weighing in at 45kg (perhaps Power Tank would be a more appropriate name?) it also needs some serious handles to assist in moving it around…

I love the way the meter backlights come on when the inverter switch is flipped.

Appliances the inverter has run successfully:

  • Toaster, obviously
  • 1kW electric heater
  • 400W “Eco Henry” vacuum cleaner
  • Clarke CDP102 pillar drill
  • Clarke 6″ bench grinder
  • 1200W travel hair dryer (output sags to 220V, hair dryer only produces 1kW)
  • Ikea TILLREDA induction hotplate (only up to 40% power…)
  • A selection of guitar amps (works surprisingly well with no noise issues)

Posted on

Tesla Space Gun 2000

For this year’s Gaussfest I decided to make a dub siren and connect it to Odin.

A dub siren is basically a very simple analog synth used to make sound effects for dub reggae. The original ones were a simple circuit with two 555 timers, but there are all sorts of variations on the theme. I was especially impressed by the Rigsmith GS1, which seems to contain some sort of toy sound effect IC.

I’m sure I had something similar mounted on the handlebars of my Raleigh Chopper in the 80s. How hard could it be to build one?

After some Googling and searching eBay, I found a surplus dealer selling some promising looking chips: the HK620 and HK623.

To make my dub siren I copied the data sheet application circuits almost exactly. The only change I made was to replace the timing resistor (“Rosc” in the datasheet) with a 1M pot in series with a 47k fixed resistor. I also added a 3.3 volt regulator so it could run off the standard 9V guitar pedal supply.

Buttons… So many buttons…
And a Hammond diecast box and some other bits and pieces

It sounds identical to the Rigsmith! Have they been shopping at Budgetronics too? 😀

Testing with a delay pedal and guitar amp