Project Happy Welder 3000

[Documenting the happy outcome]

This was a long-running project to get my welder running off the Lister diesel generator. After a few dead ends it is now officially finished and has become a piece of workshop equipment for day-to-day welding of other things.

It ended up split into two sections which I’ll call the Happy Welder 3000S and 3000T. The division was a bit arbitrary and was really about letting me reuse salvaged enclosures from my junk heap.

Happy Welder 3000S

The “S” stands for switch box or splitter. The main purpose of this part is to split the incoming supply from the generator into two. One feed goes to the welder and the other to a selection of “dumpable loads” which are switched off while welding is in progress.

The motivation behind this is to keep a decent amount of load on the engine most of the time. Diesels like to work and will get clogged up with soot if left idling for long periods of time. And the nature of welding is short periods of high power draw with long breaks in between. (at least at Container Labs it is, I’m not planning on building a ship any time soon)

I fiddled with a few different schemes to turn off the dumpable loads by sensing the supply current draw of the welder, but couldn’t get this to work reliably. So I modified the welder slightly. It has a solenoid operated gas valve inside that supplies argon to the torch while welding. This opens a second or two before the arc is struck and stays open for about 20 seconds after it goes out. Just perfect for actuating a load dump contactor.

Using some zip ties and piggyback spade terminals, I connected a relay in parallel with the gas valve operating coil. This runs off 24V DC so finding a suitable relay was no problem. To save drilling a hole* in the welder I repurposed the 3 unused pins on the foot pedal connector. I do have a foot pedal, but it plugs into the hand controller socket on the front panel.

* another hole- the eagle-eyed might notice that I’ve already replaced the captive power cord with a Neutrik Powercon inlet. I love Powercons ๐Ÿ˜€

Schematic of Happy Welder 3000S

I wanted a low voltage signal for triggering the load dump contactor. The relay I added inside the welder is quite capable of switching 230V, but the foot switch plug has male pins that could deliver an electric shock when unplugged if I used mains voltage here. So the finishing touch was a small low voltage power supply inside the 3000S enclosure just for the contactor coil. I used a 12V switched mode wall wart with the pins trimmed down and a piece of plastic attached with hot glue to insulate the stumps.

The CPC catalogue turned up an inexpensive 20A contactor with a 12V coil and normally closed contact, and the 3000S was done.

In use the “dumpable loads” are two battery chargers feeding the Power Tank, and an electric heater. The 3000S also serves as the earthing point for the generator and everything connected to it.

The battery chargers are modified switched mode power supplies which I’ll write about another time. In the bottom right you can see my long-suffering Astec LPS250 which started life as 5V, 50A, and is now cranking out 30A at 14.4V. Not bad for a “250W” unit, do I smell burning? :/

Happy Welder 3000T

T is for transformer. This box (a Pentium 4 PC in a previous life) contains all of the parts that I found were needed to make the welder accept Lister’s quirky retro power quality. I already had this enclosure in my junk pile and it fitted perfectly under the workbench. I pondered trying to squeeze the 3000S parts in here too but decided it would be a wiring and assembly nightmare.

Schematic of Happy Welder 3000T

The most important part (as determined by trial and error) is a 2.1kVA autotransformer that steps down 230V to 190. I believe this was originally used to reduce the voltage to street lighting in the early hours as an energy saving measure.

The box also contains a bridge rectifier, capacitor and power resistor (sold as a 230V, 100W cabinet heater) the purpose of which is to draw lots of current on the voltage peaks and squash them down a bit further. This was the final bodge that allowed me to max out the generator’s engine power without any overvoltage trips. Hopefully it should also protect the 12V power supply inside the 3000S from destruction by excessive peak voltage.

A small fan on the rear panel blows air over the transformer, before it exits through the resistor. This is really a must as the resistor is dissipating about twice its rated power.

The fan was also salvaged. I can’t remember what it came out of. I had a fun afternoon making front and rear panels out of pieces of scrap metal.

The first of hopefully many happy welds. (proof that a weld doesn’t need to be Insta worthy to be happy ๐Ÿ˜€ )

Why won’t Lister run the welder?

[~A tale of weird waveforms~]

My main motivation for borrowing Lister was to run the welder at Container Labs. My GYS Protig 201 AC/DC claims to be “generator friendly and protected” but also “minimum generator size 7.5kVA”.

Lister is rated for 3kW at power factor 1.0, but looks massively overbuilt, so I thought it would be worth a try.

My first attempt at welding was pretty anticlimactic, on striking an arc the welder instantly shut down with error code “US1”. According to the GYS manual this means input voltage over 265V RMS. On further reading the unit claims to withstand up to 400V RMS/700V peak without damage but will apparently shut down above 265.

Since the welder has a PFC front end, I tried substituting the Odin PFC to see if this would manifest the same issue. It is rated to run at 415V RMS and has 1200V semiconductors so I had no worries about blowing it up with overvoltage. I used the Tesla Model 3 cabin heater as a dummy load for the PFC output.

This was somewhat inconclusive as the Odin PFC happily ate all of the generator output, showing no signs of serious instability under load, and making an impressive blast of hot air from the cabin heater.

The unloaded peak voltage did look somewhat high, due to the PFC’s EMI filter capacitors resonating with the generator winding inductance at the tooth ripple frequency.

Unloaded

These scope shots only show one-half of the generator output voltage, as I didn’t have an isolated scope probe handy, and the generator output is centre tapped to earth. So the total peak voltage is 472V unloaded and 368V under full load. These would equate to 335V and 261V RMS with an ideal sine wave. Since the actual RMS is 256V unloaded and 232V loaded, we certainly have some evidence of waveform distortion under both conditions.

Fully loaded

So on the face of it I could see how this could trip the welder’s overvoltage protection. I also heard from a friend who had experience of using similar generators to power his ham radio field day stations, and he said the waveforms tended to be “thin” with too high peak voltage for their RMS.

I pondered various ways of attacking the problem, a filter to remove the tooth ripple? This would need some seriously expensive and bulky inductors, so I didn’t bother. My first experiment was to step the output voltage down using an autotransformer (as I had one handy) and clip the peaks off using a rectifier, capacitor and resistive load.

This contraption (which I’ll call the Happy Welder 3000) worked surprisingly well, using the 190V tap, the peak and RMS voltages were both brought somewhat under control, and I was able to crank the welder to about 150A output at which point the engine began to bog down and belch black smoke, but would recover by letting off the TIG foot pedal.

Voltage and current drawn by the peak clipper

The Happy Welder 3000 seemed like a bodge so I went looking for a more elegant solution. I discovered that just switching the generator to 115V would give a decent result with no extra hardware needed. Voltage drop in the 25m x 2.5 sq mm extension cord (used to get generator noise and diesel fumes away from me) now limited me to a somewhat lower welding current before I got error “US2”, undervoltage this time. I was able to do a small job on mild steel this way.

I spent way too long thinking about this problem and ended up building an AVR which to my surprise, made the problem even worse! The welder was quite happy with 200V from the autotransformer, but with generator output reduced to 200V by the AVR, it wouldn’t run for more than a fraction of a second before tripping on error US1.

I don’t know how it took me so long, but I eventually stumbled on the idea of filming the scope screen while welding and examining the footage frame by frame.

I believe this frame captures the instant that the welder shuts down on error US1. Top trace is generator output voltage, bottom is current drawn by the AVR’s peak clipping channel. DVM shows the voltage across the AVR’s filter capacitor, which should be one-half of the peak output voltage.

The waveform is completely different to any I saw previously, and leaves only one possible explanation, the impedance (resistance and inductance) of the generator windings is too high for the welder’s PFC front end, it goes unstable and wrenches the waveform out of shape.

The instability pushes the peak voltage way higher than anything I measured while not welding, and does this so quickly that the meters I’d been using didn’t have time to register it. The AVR’s peak clipper tries to keep the peak voltage under control but fails.

This explains why stepping the voltage down to 200, and switching the generator to 115V, both worked and enabled me to weld, but using the AVR to reduce the voltage to 200 didn’t.

Switching to 115V gives an impedance one-quarter of the 230V setting. A transformer that steps the voltage down from 240 to 200 reduces the impedance to 76%.

On the other hand, the AVR only compensates for relatively slow fluctuations in voltage by adjusting the field current. It has no effect on the resistance and inductance of the windings, so can’t do anything about the waveform distortion.

I think I earned my professional development points on this one.